Beyond the great prairies and in the shadow of the Rockies lie the
Foothills. For nine hundred miles the prairies spread themselves
out in vast level reaches, and then begin to climb over softly
rounded mounds that ever grow higher and sharper till, here and
there, they break into jagged points and at last rest upon the
great bases of the mighty mountains. These rounded hills that join
the prairies to the mountains form the Foothill Country. They
extend for about a hundred miles only, but no other hundred miles
of the great West are so full of interest and romance. The natural
features of the country combine the beauties of prairie and of
mountain scenery. There are valleys so wide that the farther side
melts into the horizon, and uplands so vast as to suggest the
unbroken prairie. Nearer the mountains the valleys dip deep and
ever deeper till they narrow into canyons through which mountain
torrents pour their blue-gray waters from glaciers that lie
glistening between the white peaks far away. Here are the great
ranges on which feed herds of cattle and horses. Here are the
homes of the ranchmen, in whose wild, free, lonely existence there
mingles much of the tragedy and comedy, the humor and pathos, that
go to make up the romance of life. Among them are to be found the
most enterprising, the most daring, of the peoples of the old
lands. The broken, the outcast, the disappointed, these too have
found their way to the ranches among the Foothills. A country it
is whose sunlit hills and shaded valleys reflect themselves in the
lives of its people; for nowhere are the contrasts of light and
shade more vividly seen than in the homes of the ranchmen of the
Albertas.
The experiences of my life have confirmed in me the orthodox
conviction that Providence sends his rain upon the evil as upon the
good; else I should never have set my eyes upon the Foothill
country, nor touched its strangely fascinating life, nor come to
know and love the most striking man of all that group of striking
men of the Foothill country--the dear old Pilot, as we came to call
him long afterwards. My first year in college closed in gloom. My
guardian was in despair. From this distance of years I pity him.
Then I considered him unnecessarily concerned about me--"a fussy
old hen," as one of the boys suggested. The invitation from Jack
Dale, a distant cousin, to spend a summer with him on his ranch in
South Alberta came in the nick of time. I was wild to go. My
guardian hesitated long; but no other solution of the problem of my
disposal offering, he finally agreed that I could not well get into
more trouble by going than by staying. Hence it was that, in the
early summer of one of the eighties, I found myself attached to a
Hudson's Bay Company freight train, making our way from a little
railway town in Montana towards the Canadian boundary. Our train
consisted of six wagons and fourteen yoke of oxen, with three
cayuses, in charge of a French half-breed and his son, a lad of
about sixteen. We made slow enough progress, but every hour of the
long day, from the dim, gray, misty light of dawn to the soft glow
of shadowy evening, was full of new delights to me. On the evening
of the third day we reached the Line Stopping Place, where Jack
Dale met us. I remember well how my heart beat with admiration of
the easy grace with which he sailed down upon us in the loose-
jointed cowboy style, swinging his own bronco and the little cayuse
he was leading for me into the circle of the wagons, careless of
ropes and freight and other impedimenta. He flung himself off
before his bronco had come to a stop, and gave me a grip that made
me sure of my welcome. It was years since he had seen a man from
home, and the eager joy in his eyes told of long days and nights of
lonely yearning for the old days and the old faces. I came to
understand this better after my two years' stay among these hills
that have a strange power on some days to waken in a man longings
that make his heart grow sick. When supper was over we gathered
about the little fire, while Jack and the half-breed smoked and
talked. I lay on my back looking up at the pale, steady stars in
the deep blue of the cloudless sky, and listened in fullness of
contented delight to the chat between Jack and the driver. Now and
then I asked a question, but not too often. It is a listening
silence that draws tales from a western man, not vexing questions.
This much I had learned already from my three days' travel. So I
lay and listened, and the tales of that night are mingled with the
warm evening lights and the pale stars and the thoughts of home
that Jack's coming seemed to bring.
Next morning before sun-up we had broken camp and were ready for
our fifty-mile ride. There was a slight drizzle of rain and,
though rain and shine were alike to him, Jack insisted that I
should wear my mackintosh. This garment was quite new and had a
loose cape which rustled as I moved toward my cayuse. He was an
ugly-looking little animal, with more white in his eye than I cared
to see. Altogether, I did not draw toward him. Nor did he to me,
apparently. For as I took him by the bridle he snorted and sidled
about with great swiftness, and stood facing me with his feet
planted firmly in front of him as if prepared to reject overtures
of any kind soever. I tried to approach him with soothing words,
but he persistently backed away until we stood looking at each
other at the utmost distance of his outstretched neck and my
outstretched arm. At this point Jack came to my assistance, got
the pony by the other side of the bridle, and held him fast till I
got into position to mount. Taking a firm grip of the horn of the
Mexican saddle, I threw my leg over his back. The next instant I
was flying over his head. My only emotion was one of surprise, the
thing was so unexpected. I had fancied myself a fair rider, having
had experience of farmers' colts of divers kinds, but this was
something quite new. The half-breed stood looking on, mildly
interested; Jack was smiling, but the boy was grinning with
delight.
"I'll take the little beast," said Jack. But the grinning boy
braced me up and I replied as carelessly as my shaking voice would
allow:
"Oh, I guess I'll manage him," and once more got into position.
But no sooner had I got into the saddle than the pony sprang
straight up into the air and lit with his back curved into a bow,
his four legs gathered together and so absolutely rigid that the
shock made my teeth rattle. It was my first experience of
"bucking." Then the little brute went seriously to work to get rid
of the rustling, flapping thing on his back. He would back
steadily for some seconds, then, with two or three forward plunges,
he would stop as if shot and spring straight into the upper air,
lighting with back curved and legs rigid as iron. Then he would
walk on his hind legs for a few steps, then throw himself with
amazing rapidity to one side and again proceed to buck with vicious
diligence.
"Stick to him!" yelled Jack, through his shouts of laughter.
"You'll make him sick before long."
I remember thinking that unless his insides were somewhat more
delicately organized than his external appearance would lead one to
suppose the chances were that the little brute would be the last to
succumb to sickness. To make matters worse, a wilder jump than
ordinary threw my cape up over my head, so that I was in complete
darkness. And now he had me at his mercy, and he knew no pity. He
kicked and plunged and reared and bucked, now on his front legs,
now on his hind legs, often on his knees, while I, in the darkness,
could only cling to the horn of the saddle. At last, in one of the
gleams of light that penetrated the folds of my enveloping cape, I
found that the horn had slipped to his side, so the next time he
came to his knees I threw myself off. I am anxious to make this
point clear, for, from the expression of triumph on the face of the
grinning boy, and his encomiums of the pony, I gathered that he
scored a win for the cayuse. Without pause that little brute
continued for some seconds to buck and plunge even after my
dismounting, as if he were some piece of mechanism that must run
down before it could stop.
By this time I was sick enough and badly shaken in my nerve, but
the triumphant shouts and laughter of the boy and the complacent
smiles on the faces of Jack and the half-breed stirred my wrath. I
tore off the cape and, having got the saddle put right, seized
Jack's riding whip and, disregarding his remonstrances, sprang on
my steed once more, and before he could make up his mind as to his
line of action plied him so vigorously with the rawhide that he set
off over the prairie at full gallop, and in a few minutes came
round to the camp quite subdued, to the boy's great disappointment
and to my own great surprise. Jack was highly pleased, and even
the stolid face of the half-breed showed satisfaction.
"Don't think I put this up on you," Jack said. "It was that cape.
He ain't used to such frills. But it was a circus," he added,
going off into a fit of laughter, "worth five dollars any day."
"You bet!" said the half-breed. "Dat's make pretty beeg fun, eh?"
It seemed to me that it depended somewhat upon the point of view,
but I merely agreed with him, only too glad to be so well out of
the fight.
All day we followed the trail that wound along the shoulders of the
round-topped hills or down their long slopes into the wide, grassy
valleys. Here and there the valleys were cut through by coulees
through which ran swift, blue-gray rivers, clear and icy cold,
while from the hilltops we caught glimpses of little lakes covered
with wild-fowl that shrieked and squawked and splashed, careless of
danger. Now and then we saw what made a black spot against the
green of the prairie, and Jack told me it was a rancher's shack.
How remote from the great world, and how lonely it seemed!--this
little black shack among these multitudinous hills.
I shall never forget the summer evening when Jack and I rode into
Swan Creek. I say into--but the village was almost entirely one of
imagination, in that it consisted of the Stopping Place, a long log
building, a story and a half high, with stables behind, and the
store in which the post-office was kept and over which the owner
dwelt. But the situation was one of great beauty. On one side the
prairie rambled down from the hills and then stretched away in
tawny levels into the misty purple at the horizon; on the other it
clambered over the round, sunny tops to the dim blue of the
mountains beyond.
In this world, where it is impossible to reach absolute values, we
are forced to hold things relatively, and in contrast with the
long, lonely miles of our ride during the day these two houses,
with their outbuildings, seemed a center of life. Some horses were
tied to the rail that ran along in front of the Stopping Place.
"Hello!" said Jack, "I guess the Noble Seven are in town."
"And who are they?" I asked.
"Oh," he replied, with a shrug, "they are the elite Of Swan Creek;
and by Jove," he added, "this must be a Permit Night."
"What does that mean?" I asked, as we rode up towards the tie rail.
"Well," said Jack, in a low tone, for some men were standing about
the door, "you see, this is a prohibition country, but when one of
the boys feels as if he were going to have a spell of sickness he
gets a permit to bring in a few gallons for medicinal purposes; and
of course, the other boys being similarly exposed, he invites them
to assist him in taking preventive measures. And," added Jack,
with a solemn wink, "it is remarkable, in a healthy country like
this, how many epidemics come near ketching us."
And with this mystifying explanation we joined the mysterious
company of the Noble Seven.