Our route was carrying us to the eastward of the Black Hills. The
regular trail to the Yellowstone and Montana points was by the
way of the Powder River, through Wyoming; but as we were only
grazing across to our destination, the most direct route was
adopted. The first week after leaving the Niobrara was without
incident, except the meeting with a band of Indians, who were
gathering and drying the wild fruit in which the country
abounded. At first sighting their camp we were uneasy, holding
the herd close together; but as they proved friendly, we relaxed
and shared our tobacco with the men. The women were nearly all of
one stature, short, heavy, and repulsive in appearance, while the
men were tall, splendid specimens of the aborigines, and as
uniform in a dozen respects as the cattle we were driving.
Communication was impossible, except by signs, but the chief had
a letter of permission from the agent at Pine Ridge, allowing
himself and band a month's absence from the reservation on a
berrying expedition. The bucks rode with us for hours, silently
absorbed in the beeves, and towards evening turned and galloped
away for their encampment.
It must have been the latter part of July when we reached the
South Fork of the Big Cheyenne River. The lead was first held by
one and then the other herd, but on reaching that watercourse, we
all found it more formidable than we expected. The stage of water
was not only swimming, but where we struck it, the river had an
abrupt cut-bank on one side or the other. Sponsilier happened to
be in the lead, and Forrest and myself held back to await the
decision of the veteran foreman. The river ran on a northwest
angle where we encountered it, and Dave followed down it some
distance looking for a crossing. The herds were only three or
four miles apart, and assistance could have been rendered each
other, but it was hardly to be expected that an older foreman
would ask either advice or help from younger ones. Hence Quince
and myself were in no hurry, nor did we intrude ourselves on
David the pathfinder, but sought out a crossing up the river and
on our course. A convenient riffle was soon found in the river
which would admit the passage of the wagons without rafting, if a
cut-bank on the south side could be overcome. There was an abrupt
drop of about ten feet to the water level, and I argued that a
wagon-way could be easily cut in the bank and the commissaries
lowered to the river's edge with a rope to the rear axle. Forrest
also favored the idea, and I was authorized to cross the wagons
in case a suitable ford could be found for the cattle. My
aversion to manual labor was quite pronounced, yet John Q.
Forrest wheedled me into accepting the task of making a
wagon-road. About a mile above the riffle, a dry wash cut a gash
in the bluff bank on the opposite side, which promised the
necessary passageway for the herds out of the river. The slope on
the south side was gradual, affording an easy inlet to the water,
the only danger being on the other bank, the dry wash not being
over thirty feet wide. But we both agreed that by putting the
cattle in well above the passageway, even if the current was
swift, an easy and successful ford would result. Forrest
volunteered to cross the cattle, and together we returned to the
herds for dinner.
Quince allowed me one of his men besides the cook, and detailed
Clay Zilligan to assist with the wagons. We took my remuda, the
spades and axes, and started for the riffle. The commissaries had
orders to follow up, and Forrest rode away with a supercilious
air, as if the crossing of wagons was beneath the attention of a
foreman of his standing. Several hours of hard work were spent
with the implements at hand in cutting the wagon-way through the
bank, after which my saddle horses were driven up and down; and
when it was pronounced finished, it looked more like a
beaver-slide than a roadway. But a strong stake was cut and
driven into the ground, and a corral-rope taken from the axle to
it; without detaching the teams, the wagons were eased down the
incline and crossed in safety, the water not being over three
feet deep in the shallows. I was elated over the ease and success
of my task, when Zilligan called attention to the fact that the
first herd had not yet crossed. The chosen ford was out of sight,
but had the cattle been crossing, we could have easily seen them
on the mesa opposite. "Well," said Clay, "the wagons are over,
and what's more, all the mules in the three outfits couldn't
bring one of them back up that cliff."
We mounted our horses, paying no attention to Zilligan's note of
warning, and started up the river. But before we came in view of
the ford, a great shouting reached our ears, and giving our
horses the rowel, we rounded a bend, only to be confronted with
the river full of cattle which had missed the passageway out on
the farther side. A glance at the situation revealed a dangerous
predicament, as the swift water and the contour of the river held
the animals on the farther side or under the cut-bank. In
numerous places there was footing on the narrow ledges to which
the beeves clung like shipwrecked sailors, constantly crowding
each other off into the current and being carried downstream
hundreds of yards before again catching a foothold. Above and
below the chosen ford, the river made a long gradual bend, the
current and deepest water naturally hugged the opposite shore,
and it was impossible for the cattle to turn back, though the
swimming water was not over forty yards wide. As we dashed up,
the outfit succeeded in cutting the train of cattle and turning
them back, though fully five hundred were in the river, while not
over one fifth that number had crossed in safety. Forrest was as
cool as could be expected, and exercised an elegant command of
profanity in issuing his orders.
"I did allow for the swiftness of the current," said he, in reply
to a criticism of mine, "but those old beeves just drifted
downstream like a lot of big tubs. The horses swam it easy, and
the first hundred cattle struck the mouth of the wash square in
the eye, but after that they misunderstood it for a bath instead
of a ford. Oh, well, it's live and learn, die and forget it. But
since you're so d-- strong on the sabe, suppose you suggest a way
of getting those beeves out of the river."
It was impossible to bring them back, and the only alternative
was attempted. About three quarters of a mile down the river the
cut-bank shifted to the south side. If the cattle could swim that
distance there was an easy landing below. The beeves belonged to
Forrest's herd, and I declined the proffered leadership, but
plans were outlined and we started the work of rescue. Only a few
men were left to look after the main herds, the remainder of us
swimming the river on our horses. One man was detailed to drive
the contingent which had safely forded, down to the point where
the bluff bank shifted and the incline commenced on the north
shore. The cattle were clinging, in small bunches, under the
cut-bank like swallows to a roof for fully a quarter-mile below
the mouth of the dry wash. Divesting ourselves of all clothing, a
squad of six of us, by way of experiment, dropped over the bank
and pushed into the river about twenty of the lowest cattle. On
catching the full force of the current, which ran like a
mill-race, we swept downstream at a rapid pace, sometimes
clinging to a beef's tail, but generally swimming between the
cattle and the bluff. The force of the stream drove them against
the bank repeatedly, but we dashed water in their eyes and pushed
them off again and again, and finally landed every steer.
The Big Cheyenne was a mountain stream, having numerous
tributaries heading in the Black Hills. The water was none too
warm, and when we came out the air chilled us; but we scaled the
bluff and raced back after more cattle. Forrest was in the river
on our return, but I ordered his wrangler to drive all the horses
under saddle down to the landing, in order that the men could
have mounts for returning. This expedited matters, and the work
progressed more rapidly. Four separate squads were drifting the
cattle, but in the third contingent we cut off too many beeves
and came near drowning two fine ones. The animals in question
were large and strong, but had stood for nearly an hour on a
slippery ledge, frequently being crowded into the water, and were
on the verge of collapse from nervous exhaustion. They were
trembling like leaves when we pushed them off. Runt Pickett was
detailed to look especially after those two, and the little
rascal nursed and toyed and played with them like a circus rider.
They struggled constantly for the inshore, but Runt rode their
rumps alternately, the displacement lifting their heads out of
the water to good advantage. When we finally landed, the two big
fellows staggered out of the river and dropped down through sheer
weakness, a thing which I had never seen before except in wild
horses.
A number of the boys were attacked by chills, and towards evening
had to be excused for fear of cramps. By six o'clock we were
reduced to two squads, with about fifty cattle still remaining in
the river. Forrest and I had quit the water after the fourth
trip; but Quince had a man named De Manse, a Frenchman, who swam
like a wharf-rat and who stayed to the finish, while I turned my
crew over to Runt Pickett. The latter was raised on the coast of
Texas, and when a mere boy could swim all day, with or without
occasion. Dividing the remaining beeves as near equally as
possible, Runt's squad pushed off slightly in advance of De
Manse, the remainder of us riding along the bank with the horses
and clothing, and cheering our respective crews. The Frenchman
was but a moment later in taking the water, and as pretty and
thrilling a race as I ever witnessed was in progress. The latter
practiced a trick, when catching a favorable current, of dipping
the rump of a steer, thus lifting his fore parts and rocking him
forward like a porpoise. When a beef dropped to the rear, this
process was resorted to, and De Manse promised to overtake
Pickett. From our position on the bank, we shouted to Runt to dip
his drag cattle in swift water; but amid the din and splash of
the struggling swimmers our messages failed to reach his ears.
De Manse was gaining slowly, when Pickett's bunch were driven
inshore, a number of them catching a footing, and before they
could be again pushed off, the Frenchman's cattle were at their
heels. A number of De Manse's men were swimming shoreward of
their charges, and succeeded in holding their beeves off the
ledge, which was the last one before the landing. The remaining
hundred yards was eddy water; and though Pickett fought hard,
swimming among the Frenchman's lead cattle, to hold the two
bunches separate, they mixed in the river. As an evidence of
victory, however, when the cattle struck a foothold, Runt and
each of his men mounted a beef and rode out of the water some
distance. As the steers recovered and attempted to dislodge their
riders, they nimbly sprang from their backs and hustled
themselves into their ragged clothing.
I breathed easier after the last cattle landed, though Forrest
contended there was never any danger. At least a serious
predicament had been blundered into and handled, as was shown by
subsequent events. At noon that day, rumblings of thunder were
heard in the Black Hills country to the west, a warning to get
across the river as soon as possible. So the situation at the
close of the day was not a very encouraging one to either Forrest
or myself. The former had his cattle split in two bunches, while
I had my wagon and remuda on the other side of the river from my
herd. But the emergency must be met. I sent a messenger after our
wagon, it was brought back near the river, and a hasty supper was
ordered. Two of my boys were sent up to the dry wash to recross
the river and drift our cattle down somewhere near the
wagon-crossing, thus separating the herds for the night. I have
never made claim to being overbright, but that evening I did have
sense or intuition enough to take our saddle horses back across
the river. My few years of trail life had taught me the
importance of keeping in close touch with our base of
subsistence, while the cattle and the saddle stock for handling
them should under no circumstances ever be separated. Yet under
existing conditions it was impossible to recross our commissary,
and darkness fell upon us encamped on the south side of the Big
Cheyenne.
The night passed with almost constant thunder and lightning in
the west. At daybreak heavy dark clouds hung low in a semicircle
all around the northwest, threatening falling weather, and hasty
preparations were made to move down the stream in search of a
crossing. In fording the river to breakfast, my outfit agreed
that there had been no perceptible change in the stage of water
overnight, which quickened our desire to move at once. The two
wagons were camped close together, and as usual Forrest was
indifferent and unconcerned over the threatening weather; he had
left his remuda all night on the north side of the river, and had
actually turned loose the rescued contingent of cattle. I did not
mince my words in giving Mr. Forrest my programme, when he turned
on me, saying: "Quirk, you have more trouble than a married
woman. What do I care if it is raining in London or the Black
Hills either? Let her rain; our sugar and salt are both covered,
and we can lend you some if yours gets wet. But you go right
ahead and follow up Sponsilier; he may not find a crossing this
side of the Belle Fourche. I can take spades and axes, and in two
hours' time cut down and widen that wagon-way until the herds can
cross. I wouldn't be as fidgety as you are for a large farm. You
ought to take something for your nerves."
I had a mental picture of John Quincy Forrest doing any manual
labor with an axe or spade. During our short acquaintance that
had been put to the test too often to admit of question; but I
encouraged him to fly right at the bank, assuring him that in
case his tools became heated, there was always water at hand to
cool them. The wrangler had rustled in the wagon-mules for our
cook, and Forrest was still ridiculing my anxiety to move, when a
fusillade of shots was heard across and up the river. Every man
at both wagons was on his feet in an instant, not one of us even
dreaming that the firing of the boys on herd was a warning, when
Quince's horsewrangler galloped up and announced a flood-wave
coming down the river. A rush was made for our horses, and we
struck for the ford, dashing through the shallows and up the
farther bank without drawing rein. With a steady rush, a body of
water, less than a mile distant, greeted our vision, looking like
the falls of some river, rolling forward like an immense
cylinder. We sat our horses in bewilderment of the scene, though
I had often heard Jim Flood describe the sudden rise of streams
which had mountain tributaries. Forrest and his men crossed
behind us, leaving but the cooks and a horse-wrangler on the
farther side. It was easily to be seen that all the lowlands
along the river would be inundated, so I sent Levering back with
orders to hook up the team and strike for tall timber. Following
suit, Forrest sent two men to rout the contingent of cattle out
of a bend which was nearly a mile below the wagons. The wave,
apparently ten to twelve feet high, moved forward slowly, great
walls lopping off on the side and flooding out over the bottoms,
while on the farther shore every cranny and arroyo claimed its
fill from the avalanche of water. The cattle on the south side
were safe, grazing well back on the uplands, so we gave the
oncoming flood our undivided attention. It was traveling at the
rate of eight to ten miles an hour, not at a steady pace, but
sometimes almost halting when the bottoms absorbed its volume,
only to catch its breath and forge ahead again in angry
impetuosity. As the water passed us on the bluff bank, several
waves broke over and washed around our horses' feet, filling the
wagon-way, but the main volume rolled across the narrow valley on
the opposite side. The wagons had pulled out to higher ground,
and while every eye was strained, watching for the rescued beeves
to come out of the bend below, Vick Wolf, who happened to look
upstream, uttered a single shout of warning and dashed away.
Turning in our saddles, we saw within five hundred feet of us a
second wave about half the height of the first one. Rowels and
quirts were plied with energy and will, as we tore down the
river-bank, making a gradual circle until the second bottoms were
reached, outriding the flood by a close margin.
The situation was anything but encouraging, as days might elapse
before the water would fall. But our hopes revived as we saw the
contingent of about six hundred beeves stampede out of a bend
below and across the river, followed by two men who were
energetically burning powder and flaunting slickers in their
rear. Within a quarter of an hour, a halfmile of roaring, raging
torrent, filled with floating driftwood, separated us from the
wagons which contained the staples of life. But in the midst of
the travail of mountain and plain, the dry humor of the men was
irrepressible, one of Forrest's own boys asking him if he felt
any uneasiness now about his salt and sugar.
"Oh, this is nothing," replied Quince, with a contemptuous wave
of his hand. "These freshets are liable to happen at any time;
rise in an hour and fall in half a day. Look there how it is
clearing off in the west; the river will be fordable this evening
or in the morning at the furthest. As long as everything is safe,
what do we care? If it comes to a pinch, we have plenty of stray
beef; berries are ripe, and I reckon if we cast around we might
find some wild onions. I have lived a whole month at a time on
nothing but land-terrapin; they make larruping fine eating when
you are cut off from camp this way. Blankets? Never use them;
sleep on your belly and cover with your back, and get up with the
birds in the morning. These Lovell outfits are getting so tony
that by another year or two they'll insist on bathtubs, Florida
water, and towels with every wagon. I like to get down to
straight beans for a few days every once in a while; it has a
tendency to cure a man with a whining disposition. The only thing
that's worrying me, if we get cut off, is the laugh that
Sponsilier will have on us."
We all knew Forrest was bluffing. The fact that we were
water-bound was too apparent to admit of question, and since the
elements were beyond our control, there was no telling when
relief would come. Until the weather moderated in the hills to
the west, there was no hope of crossing the river; but men grew
hungry and nights were chilly, and bluster and bravado brought
neither food nor warmth. A third wave was noticed within an hour,
raising the water-gauge over a foot. The South Fork of the Big
Cheyenne almost encircled the entire Black Hills country, and
with a hundred mountain affluents emptying in their tribute, the
waters commanded and we obeyed. Ordering my men to kill a beef, I
rode down the river in the hope of finding Sponsilier on our
side, and about noon sighted his camp and cattle on the opposite
bank. A group of men were dallying along the shore, but being out
of hearing, I turned back without exposing myself.
On my return a general camp had been established at the nearest
wood, and a stray killed. Stakes were driven to mark the rise or
fall of the water, and we settled down like prisoners, waiting
for an expected reprieve. Towards evening a fire was built up and
the two sides of ribs were spitted over it, our only chance for
supper. Night fell with no perceptible change in the situation,
the weather remaining dry and clear. Forrest's outfit had been
furnished horses from my remuda for guard duty, and about
midnight, wrapping ourselves in slickers, we lay down in a circle
with our feet to the fire like cave-dwellers. The camp-fire was
kept up all night by the returning guards, even until the morning
hours, when we woke up shivering at dawn and hurried away to note
the stage of the water. A four-foot fall had taken place during
the night, another foot was added within an hour after sun-up,
brightening our hopes, when a tidal wave swept down the valley,
easily establishing a new high-water mark. Then we breakfasted on
broiled beefsteak, and fell back into the hills in search of the
huckleberry, which abounded in that vicinity.
A second day and night passed, with the water gradually falling.
The third morning a few of the best swimmers, tiring of the diet
of beef and berries, took advantage of the current and swam to
the other shore. On returning several hours later, they brought
back word that Sponsilier had been up to the wagons the afternoon
before and reported an easy crossing about five miles below. By
noon the channel had narrowed to one hundred yards of swimming
water, and plunging into it on our horses, we dined at the wagons
and did justice to the spread. Both outfits were anxious to move,
and once dinner was over, the commissaries were started down the
river, while we turned up it, looking for a chance to swim back
to the cattle. Forrest had secured a fresh mount of horses, and
some distance above the dry wash we again took to the water,
landing on the opposite side between a quarter and half mile
below. Little time was lost in starting the herds, mine in the
lead, while the wagons got away well in advance, accompanied by
Forrest's remuda and the isolated contingent of cattle.
Sponsilier was expecting us, and on the appearance of our wagons,
moved out to a new camp and gave us a clear crossing. A number of
the boys came down to the river with him, and several of them
swam it, meeting the cattle a mile above and piloting us into the
ford. They had assured me that there might be seventy-five yards
of swimming water, with a gradual entrance to the channel and a
half-mile of solid footing at the outcome. The description of the
crossing suited me, and putting our remuda in the lead, we struck
the muddy torrent and crossed it without a halt, the chain of
swimming cattle never breaking for a single moment. Forrest
followed in our wake, the one herd piloting the other, and within
an hour after our arrival at the lower ford, the drag-end of the
"Drooping T" herd kicked up their heels on the north bank of the
Big Cheyenne. Meanwhile Sponsilier had been quietly sitting his
horse below the main landing, his hat pulled down over his eye,
nursing the humor of the situation. As Forrest came up out of the
water with the rear guard of his cattle, the opportunity was too
good to be overlooked.
"Hello, Quince," said Dave; "how goes it, old sport? Do you keep
stout? I was up at your wagon yesterday to ask you all down to
supper. Yes, we had huckleberry pie and venison galore, but your
men told me that you had quit eating with the wagon. I was pained
to hear that you and Tom have both gone plum hog-wild, drinking
out of cowtracks and living on wild garlic and land-terrapin,
just like Injuns. Honest, boys, I hate to see good men go wrong
that way."